Trieste and Friuli walking tour in autumn: Udine to Trieste

With its mountains, plains and seashores all less than an hour's drive apart, Italian writer Ippolito Nievo fondly described the region Friuli Venezia Giulia (FVG) as a "little compendium of the universe".  This Hidden Italy special sets about exploring that universe.

Bordering Austria to the north and Slovenia to the east, FVG has long been contested by rival powers wanting to access the rich plains of northern Italy.  Today, German, Slavic and Italian populations all call it home.  The region’s landscapes are equally varied, a beguiling combination of soaring Alps, limestone plateaux, deep green valleys, rolling plains and a long stretch of Adriatic coastline.

This marvellous tour starts with two days in Udine, an elegant provincial capital.  We then head north-east into the mountains, staying in a beautifully preserved village in the heart of the Carnian Alps, our base for the next four days.  From here we drive east across the plains to ‘Venetian Slovenia’, a wedge of forested hills that forms the frontier between Italy and Slovenia.  Our base is a family-run hotel in the centre of beautiful frontier town that was founded by Julius Caesar.  Our last two nights are in the grand port city of Trieste, for four centuries the Mediterranean port for the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  Trieste has fast train connections to the rest of Italy.

With its pristine forests, national parks and fascinating history, FVG offers some wonderful walks, including: exploring the valleys and mountains of the Carnian Alps; following the historic trails through the hills that hug the Slovenian border; walking through the vineyards of the Collio region; and a stroll along the Adriatic Coast The walks range from 8 to 17 kms and follow well-marked trails, mostly unsealed country roads. In some cases it is possible to shorten the walk or to opt out and join the walkers for lunch.

The tour starts with two nights in a classic four-star hotel in the centre of Udine and finishes in one of the grand hotels of Italy: set in an elegant palazzo dating from 1727 overlooking the Piazza Unita d'Italia, the heart of Trieste.  In between, we stay in a beautiful small hotel in the mountains for four nights and another four nights in a family-run hotel in the heart of a lovely town on the Natisone River that was founded by Julius Caesar. 

With its long coastline, fertile plains, unspoilt mountains and ancient traditions, the food of Friuli is as diverse as the region itself.  Friuli also produces some of Italy's finest ingredients, including Collio wines, San Daniele ham and Montasio cheese.  You will have plenty of opportunity to experience these along the way, including dining at stylish city restaurants; simple homecooked fare in the mountains; a long lunch at a Michelin-starred trattoria in the country; finishing with a delicious seafood lunch overlooking the Gulf of Trieste.  Wine is inculded with the meals.

Sarah grew up in Tasmania where she developed her love for the outdoors, particularly hiking and skiing.  She has lived in Italy for twenty years.  Along the way, she collected her first degree in Italian Studies from UC Berkeley (California) and a PhD in Italian History from Sydney University.  

During her time in Italy, she has had extensive experience guiding and administrating cultural tours for a number of American and English travel companies and universities.  Sarah is a great cook and an enthusiastic chorister.  

She currently lives with her husband Roberto and young son on a small farm in southern Umbria, where, among other things, she is honing her skills in growing and producing olive oil.  I met Sarah years ago in Sydney and I was very pleased that I finally convinced her to join the Hidden Italy team.