Welcome to the Spring edition of the Hidden Italy Newsletter. Highlights include a magnificent Pintoricchio exhibition, a major exhibition of contemporary Spanish art and a very unusual new museum in Naples. It also includes an itinerary for Lake Garda and a wonderful restaurant in the valleys of southern Piemonte which has been in the same family for 300 years. I hope you enjoy reading it.

Simon Tancred

Hidden Italy Tours 2009:

‘I just wanted to let you know I have crowned our Hidden Italy walk my best holiday ever. I've tended towards long, complicated European holidays and this was so relaxing by comparison. I loved the location, the walk and views absolutely divine, the hotels were really lovely..... and all the meals were great!' AH 2008

With the 2008 guided tours now fully subscribed, we have opened up bookings for the 2009 guided walking tours: Sicily in the Spring (May 15 to 28 2009); and Venice and the Lakes in the Autumn (September 8 to 20 2009). Accommodation for both tours is in charming 4-star hotels with most meals included. Full details on our website: www.hiddenitaly.com.au or ask for a colour brochure.

Exhibitions:

Pintoricchio. Galleria Nazionale dell Umbria, Perugia and Spello (www.mostrapintoricchio.it until 25 May). Split between Perugia and the charming hilltown of Spello 40 kilometres to the south, the exhibition ‘Pintoricchio’ celebrates one of central Italy’s finest artists, who was born in 1454 and was trained by Perugino (helping him decorate the Sistine Chapel) and a contemporary and collaborator of Raphael. Over 40 of his works are exhibited in the Galleria Nazionale dell Umbria in Perugia, however, it is in the recently restored Baglioni Chapel in Spello that his real genius and dazzling skills are most evident. Pintoricchio is one of the major events of 2008 and is worth a trip on its own.

Canova at the court of the Czars. Masterpieces from the Hermitage of Saint Petersburg, Palazzo Reale, piazzetta Reale 1, Milano (www.mostracanova.it until 1 June). During the 1700 and 1800’s the czars (starting with Peter the Great and Catherine II) and aristocrats of Russia were the greatest collectors of art in Europe, With Canova (1757 – 1822), Italian sculpture reach some of its great heights. 7 of his works, 4 recognised masterpieces, form the centre piece of this extensive exhibition.

Bacon. Palazzo Reale, piazzetta Reale 1, Milano ( www.francisbacon.it until 29 June). The English painter is considered one of the major artists of the 20th century, his disquieting images capturing the intimate tragedy of the individual overwhelmed by a triumphant consumer society. This major exhibition includes over 80 works from the 1930s to the 1980s.

From Miro to the El Paso group – 50 years of Spanish Art. Palazzo Sant’Elia, Via Maqueda, Palermo (www.arthemisia.it/?IDC=2 until 14 September). 1957 marked a turning point in Spanish art, the transition from the ‘modern’ art of the great masters to contemporary art thanks to the birth of the El Paso group, which included artists such as Luis Bunuel, Txomin Badiola, Tapies and Solano. With its long association with Spain, it is fitting that the Sicilian capital should host one of the most important exhibitions of contemporary Spanish art in recent years. This comprehensive exhibition also includes works by Miro and Dali, as well as the last painting produced Pablo Picasso (at 92 years of age).

Events:

Plart, Via Martucci 48, Naples, - www.plart.it. A very unusual ‘museum’, recently opened in Naples, a multipurpose centre dedicated to the scientific research, technical innovation and preservation of plastic art in design in all its forms and types. Plart is centred around the extraordinary collection and obsession of a single Neapolitan entrepreneur, Maria Pia Incutti, with over 1500 pieces, made frommaterials such as bakelite, celluloid, resin, ebonite and polyurethane, many created by international artists. Plart is open from Tuesday to Friday, 10.00am to 1.00pm.

Museo degli Strumenti Musicali dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia – www.santacecilia.it. 6 years ago Renzo Piano built the intergalactic Auditorium Parco della Musica in Rome. In February it was further enhanced with opening of the Museum of Musical Instruments in a 450 square metre caveau under the Sala Santa Cecilia. The museum includes over 500 rare instruments (lutes, violas, cellos and mandolins) with the place of honour being occupied by the famous ‘Toscano’ violin, made by Stradivarius in 1690.

Museo dell’Occhiale, Palazzo Cosmo, Via Arsenale 15, Pieve a Cadore (Beluno) – www.museodellocchiale.it. Glasses were invented in 13th century Venice in the glass factories of Murano, so its appropriate that the world’s only museum dedicated to glasses is found at Pieve a Cadore in the Veneto region, with over 3000 examples, many of them unique, tracing the history of glasses from shortsighted Nero peering through emeralds at the Coliseum to the high fashion statements of the 21st century.

Hidden Italy Spring Itinerary – Lake Garda.

Nestled under towering mountains covered in forests and abandoned lemon groves, on the western shore of Lake Garda, Gargnano , a quiet and discrete town, has somehow managed to avoid being overwhelmed by tourism, be it upmarket or day trippers. The little lake port has kept its calm and local rhythm – there are no souvenir shops in the main square, just a delicatessen, a fruit and vegetable shop and tobacconist, and the lake’s four remaining commercial fishermen still use the town as their base, leaving the little port daily to try their luck in the open waters – although Gargagno has had its historical dramas – between October 1943 and April 1945 Mussolini lived in the magnificent Palazzo Feltrinelli (now a luxury hotel) on the edge of town, his puppet government living out its final chapters under German protection. Green from the winter rains, with wild flowers in full bloom and the temperatures mild, Gargagno makes an ideal base to explore the fascinating varied region around Lake Garda. (www.gardaweb.com).

What to do:

Gargnano is a pleasant place to explore, the narrow lanes that radiate out from Piazza Feltrinelli have a number of small shops and cafes, including Spazio Forno 20 (Via Forno 20) which features the ceramic works of local sculptor Mariona Fuga; the town’s local sweets are sugar biscuits called spongadi, which can be bought at the bakery Panificio Bertellii (Via Roma 8) while the area’s well regarded olive oil can be tasted and bought at Gargnano in Viale Rimembranza. There is also a small public beach at Gargnano at the Parco Fontanelle for a swim – windsurfers and canoes can be hired at the beach from OK Surf (0365 790012).

Gargnano is well connected to the rest of the lake towns by a regular ferry service. Two towns not to miss are Limone sul Garda on the western side (where you can also visit the Limonaia del Castel , Via Novembre 25, a beautifully restored commercial lemon grove dating from the 1700s when Lake Garda was a major producer of citrus fruits) and Malcesine (another picturesque historical town on the eastern side of the lake from where you can take a cable car to the top of Mount Baldo, over 2000 metres, which has spectacular views over the lake neighbouring mountains and visit one Europe’s finest high altitude botanical gardens).

For a more leisurely day you can explore the lake on board an 8.5 metre sailing boat leaving from Bogliaco at 9.00am and heading for either Malcesine or Campione del Garda, returning via the islands of Isola dell’Oliva of Trimelone at between 5.00 to 6.00pm. The cost to rent the boat for the day (for up to six passengers) is around 250 euro (contact Water Tribe, Gargnano Sailing club, Bogliaco, 0365 71433).

For landlubbers, the surrounding mountains offer many alternatives. For example, driving up to explore the Parco Regionale del Alto Garda Bresciano behind Gargnano, stopping at the Hotel Paradiso at Tremosine to enjoy the breathtaking view from its terrace. Fro mhere you can continue up to the high fields and Piano Polzine (600 mtres asl), where you can have light lunch of local cheese and polenta, before returning to the lake and Gargnano via Limone sul Garda.

For the more energetic there some wonderful walks above the lake. An easy one, and ideal for the spring time, is to the medieval hermitage of San Valentino (772 metres asl). The start of the walk is at the village of Sasso. A clearly marked path (red and white markers with the number 31) leaves Sasso taking you to the hermitage and back again in 1 to 1.5 hours. There is also a very easy and straightforward walk with spectacular views along the ridge of Monte Baldo above Malcesine. For the adventurous, canyoning adventures can be organized through Liberavventura (www.liberavventura.it).

South of Gargnano along the lake on the way back to Brescia is one of the great curiosities of the region, the Vittoriale degli Italiani (Via Vittoriale 12, www.vittoriale.it) the very eccentric castel/home built by the very eccentric Gabrielle D’Annunzio, the a poet/artist/warrior who was devoted to Mussolini. A guided tour of 30 minutes take you through the extraordinary structure, its rooms crammed with objects that reveal the same excessive taste as the parks lands that surround it.

Where to stay:

Grand Hotel a Villa Feltrinelli (Viale Rimembranza 38). If it was good enough for Mussolini……for those who really want to splash out there are few better places than this 5 star luxury hotel. Double rooms start at 980 euro’s per night, with dinner on the hotel’s terrace overlooking the lake for around 100 euro per person. Hotel Bogliaco is a more modest but nonetheless comfortable alternative, also on the shores of the lake, in the neighbouring village of Bogliaco, with double rooms starting at a more reasonable 80 euro per night. The Hotel du Lac, also a 3 star hotel, is set in a restored historical villa in Villa di Gargnano, with double rooms from 90 to 126 euro’s a night. The 1 star Albergo Gargnano offers a Spartan but comfortable alternative right in the centre of town with romantic views of the lake and double rooms starting from a very reasonable 70 euros.

Where to eat:

With its benign climate, lake and fertile land Gargnano has a proud culinary tradition. The most celebrated restaurant in the district is the Ristorante La Tortuga (Via XXIV Maggio 5, Gargnano, 0365 71251) which has held its Michelin star for the last 26 years. Its refined cooking specializes on lake fish combined with local products such as capers, lemons, olive oil and pomodorini. Ristorante Allo Scoglio (Via Barbocane 3, Bogliaco, 0365 71030) specializes in local cooking and has a garden with lake views. The Osteria al Bacaretto (Lungolago Zanardelli 10, Gargnano) is an ideal place for an evening aperitivo and also serves good local cooking.

Hidden Italy Spring Restaurant: Ristorante Corona

San Sebastiano Currone is a small town split by river at the head of valley in the Appenines, the mountain range that separates the Po Valley from the Ligurian coast. The Ristorante Corona (Via Vittorio Emanuele II 34, San Sebastiano Curone 0131 786203) is part of the town's tradition. Registered with the Locali Storici d’Italia (the historical cafes and restaurants of Italy) it has been owned and run by the Fontana family for over 300 years. Today it is in the capable hands of Mrs Matilda Fontana, who specializes in local recipes using the areas fine primary products. The menu varies according to the season but all year round you will the abundant antipasti , which may include the famous felino salami, local prosciutto and lard, vegetable torta and a rich pate of toma cheese. The first courses may include gnocchi with cream, and tortelloni of all types (with cheese, pumpkin, herbs etc), while second courses may include a stracotto piemontese (a slow cooked beef stew), roasted goat breast and, as the piece de resistance, the heart stopping Torta di Riso di San Sebastiano (see below). After a rich selection of desserts, including a chestnut gelato, the meal must be finished with a slice of the local blue cheese Montebore and the local wime Timorasso. An average meal costs around 35 euro. (www.comunesansebastiano.it).

Hidden Italy Spring Recipe: Corona’s Torta di Riso di San Sebastiano

Mix 150 grams of flour with 80 grams of butter and olive oil and 1 whole egg. Roll out a thin sheet of the mixture and line a large, low baking dish with it. Cook 300 grams of Italian rice in a litre of milk with a 30 gram packet of saffron mixed in, 30 grams of butter and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Separately mix 100 grams of grated parmesan/grana cheese and 6 whole eggs, then mix this in to the cooked rice. Pour the mixture into the baking dish, garnishing with a mixture of ground spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and star anice), glaze with egg yoke and place in an oven for half an hour and 150 degrees.